Demonstration, and A Unique New Friend

Greetings! Here's an update on the past few days... on Sunday, I went with my friend who is from Old San Juan and 2 friends from my group to a demonstration against Donald Trump trying to buy up La Perla, "the most beautiful slum in the world." The march was filled with people wearing white shirts for solidarity, dancing to the music playing in the streets, and chanting together about saving La Perla from gentrification.  Our friend said that being a part of this demonstration (we marched and wore white in solidarity as well) was something that very few visitors to Puerto Rico have had a chance to experience.  After the march, we invited two of our new friends to our hotel to salsa in our room!

Sometimes the Universe allows for interesting experiences to come your way... yesterday morning, I was in the elevator coming back from a morning run on the beach, and a man walked in and introduced himself.  We talked in the elevator, and exchanged numbers, especially because the man said he was from LA and had met a couple other UCLA students within the past few days.  When he gave me his number, he said his name was Roy Lewis.  I immediately had the feeling that he was the NFL player said to be staying at the hotel, so I googled his name... and it was! He plays for the Seahawks, not that I really follow football all that much.  I laughed when I entered my room, thinking, "That's pretty cool! First time meeting an NFL player!"  Later that day while I was studying by the pool, I saw Roy again. A few hours later, I got a text about wanting to go to dinner! It was unexpected, so my roommate and I went to a taqueria with Roy, and ended up meeting some friends from our group there as well.  Roy brought his friend Gustavo, the head of the club that is located inside our hotel (called Brava), which is said to be the most popular club in San Juan.  We all were talking and laughing, and Roy said that he was happy to have met us because it reminded him of his carefree college days.  He and Gustavo invited us to a club called La Respuesta, which is a funky club with a DJ and an art gallery all around the walls of the club! We all danced until the wee hours of the morning, and both Roy and Gustavo were incredibly respectful, treating us as if they were our older brothers.  I felt thankful for their generosity in taking us out but also in taking care of us for the entire night.  It was really interesting to talk with Roy a little bit about his childhood and his family.  He grew up in South Central LA (around where I now tutor with Project Literacy), and with his money from football he is supporting his 6 siblings and his parents.  He was a very down to earth guy, and we had a wonderful time.  And Gustavo said that whenever we want to get into our hotel's club, just give him a call... and that he would make drinks 1/2 off for UCLA students!

El Yunque

Today was the most beautiful day I have had in Puerto Rico thus far.  This morning I left at 8am with Sergio and 8 other students to El Yunque, the only rainforest within the United States.  We drove in 2 cars to the rainforest for about $20 each, and instead of spending $50 for a short hike, we spent the entire day on hiking trails, swimming in waterfalls along the way, and hiking up a steep mountainside to one of the highest lookout points in the rainforest.  I needed this; time outside, being basked in and connecting with nature.  My group was absolutely amazing, I feel like I have really found some friends with a similar sense of adventure here, and a similar outlook on life.  We laughed so much the entire day.  After being in the rainforest from morning until early evening, we grabbed some dinner and then headed to a bioluminescent lagoon.  We swam in the ocean beforehand, and unfortunately I got stung by something in the water!  However, the sting only lasted about 10 minutes, so I think I am totally fine. All in all, leaving the hotel at 8am and returning at 11pm made this day the most fulfilling day I have had in Puerto Rico.  Now, time for some sleep!!!

Another Night!

It seems to hold true that the more open you are to connections and new experiences, the more you attract those connections and experiences.  Tonight I went with a few friends to meet up with the 2 girls with whom we went salsa dancing last night, and they took us to the college town in the area.  We met a bunch of laid back college kids who all hang out together at the same spots on Thursday night, which has now been deemed college night in the town.  Since the island is relatively small (you can drive from one side to the other in about 4 hours), and since the youth from San Juan hang out in the same 2 towns, most students who go out know one another very well and are excited to see one another and catch up.  Everyone is so friendly and open to meeting new people, so I have come to know a bunch of young locals when I go out.  Not everyone on the trip is having this experience; many are hanging out closer to the hotel.  However, I was craving an authentic Puerto Rican experience, and now during only my first week here, I have already had them.  And when we meet up with locals, we really do talk about current events, debates in Puerto Rico about independence, the lively student protests that recently occurred at the University of Puerto Rico because of the fee hikes, and race/identity.  It is absolutely incredible to look around the room and see that each individual is from a mixed heritage (African, Indigenous, European), yet calls themselves Puerto Rican without question.  In the U.S., many people of mixed race have to constantly explain their race, where each parent is from, etc. Not here. You are simply Puerto Rican.

It was comforting when myself and 3 of my friends from my program were walking to meet our Puerto Rican friends and a few others from our group.  Two guys who are friends with the girls we have been hanging out with and who saw us earlier in the night would not let us wait for the other half of the group by ourselves; instead, they went out of their way to walk us to our meeting spot and wait with us until our friends came.  It just goes to show that in certain cultures, taking care of one another even if you don't know the person very well is a common practice.  Because if you help a stranger out, that stranger will one day help you out when you need it... karma.  Sounds like Ghana!

Salsa!

Last night was beautiful. I went with 6 friends, including the head of UCLA Travel Study who is here for a week to evaluate the program, to salsa dance with 2 local girls whom we met at the beach.  We made sangria at Ava's (one of the girls from here) beautiful house in Old San Juan, and they hopped between places to salsa dance, ending at a place with the most incredible live music!  We were so sweaty by the end, and the girls and all of their friends taught us how to really salsa the Puerto Rican way! Of course, we weren't great, but we had the time of our lives. We walked back to the hotel, smiling and full of life and music.  I am so happy we met these girls, they are taking us out again tonight, and they are taking us to a demonstration on Sunday.  The demonstration is happening because Donald Trump is attempting to buy up one of the poorest but most historic parts of the island, La Perla, which also has one of the most beautiful views on the island.  I think the demonstration will be incredibly interesting, especially being able to be involved and speak with people about the issue of the wealthy buying up land and pushing the poor out, along with the privatization of what was once public, which seems to be a very big problem here as well.  It is so wonderful to speak with locals, because even going out at night entails talking about politics and current events with young adults such as ourselves.

We rented a car for Saturday to go to El Yunque, a supposedly wondrous national park here.  It's both cheaper and more liberating to travel to the park on our own and hike/swim in waterfalls to be limited by a structured tour.  We also want to save our money for when we go kayak in a Bioluminescent Bay, which is something that everyone says we have to do!

It is so nice to have Sergio, the head of Travel Study, here to help me process my experiences.  He used to be a student like me with the travel bug, and has incorporated that travel bug into his life as a Travel Study coordinator.  He was telling me that the feeling of guilt for being in such a beautiful hotel, observing the life of luxury that takes place in a part of the world where tourism is essential to the economy, while I am still processing my experiences from Ghana is tough.  He validated that feeling, but said that I do not need to feel guilt; rather, I need to appreciate the experiences I am having here, for we only have this one life.  Although I enjoy living more simply (so does he), there is also something to learn from being here in Puerto Rico, experiencing this culture.  I feel very lucky to have met him, along with friends here who have a similar mindset as I do about going out into this community and experiencing all we can during these next (now almost 3!) weeks.  I am finally feeling a bit more settled, and at peace.

Attempting Simplicity!

My second full day in Puerto Rico. Coming off my time in Ghana, I already know how to live simply.  It is just a bit more difficult to do that when you are surrounded by excess, by the realities of the tourism that is at the core of the economy here in Puerto Rico.  However, food shopping at the grocery store instead of spending money going out for each meal is easy for me, and running/doing yoga on the beach has the potential to be one of the most meditative, peaceful experiences there is.  Last night, I went out with friends, and we met some locals (who I also met on the beach because all of the beaches are public), I rode a mechanical bull, and we went to the beach to drink a bit and get to know one another.  I still miss Ghana, but I think this place will teach me that I can give myself permission to relax, take classes, explore, go out dancing, run, and take a break from being challenged so much both physically and mentally.  For some reason inner peace was so easy for me to find in Ghana, and I will need to find a way to accept and appreciate this down-time... something I have always had a difficult time doing!

Puerto Rico

I arrived here feeling shockingly confused. I walked into what I knew would be a very nice hotel, and memories of Ghana just came rushing in, flooding my mind. I came here with what I thought was a completely open mind, but I do not think I have fully processed my time in Ghana, nor will my experiences there be fully processed for a long period of time. Tears filled my eyes as I walked outside to the 3 swimming pools and the beautiful ocean. Why am I here? Of course, I knew that this was one of the only programs where I could get 2 full class credits towards my major, so that I can graduate on time and hopefully finish my Education minor along with my World Arts and Cultures major.  Lisa had a wonderful idea: think of this as a conference. A month-long academic conference, where I can also learn to enjoy the nice things that I am provided with here. I think this perspective will be incredibly helpful.

My friend Giselle from my trip to Ghana also had brilliant insight, which I am so incredibly thankful for.  She said to me, "You are who you are not where you are, so make the best of the luxury hotel, and keep your Tro-Tro- bush stops- Ghana simple life self." And she's right. I don't know what my time here is about yet, but if anything, it is about maintaining my love for a simpler life while I also enjoy learning and relaxation (which I don't know how to do very well).  I will also learn how to seek out adventure on my own, because this adventure was provided in Ghana each day.  Here I have a choice.  And I will be sure to make the most out of these 4 weeks!

End of the Road

It has been a long time since blogging, but that's because I have been in the field for a month conducting fieldwork, and then getting my 45 page Independent Study Project finished and bound!  But now we are DONE, just waiting to present our projects, and strangely waiting to return to the states.  This has been the most life-changing journey I have had thus far, and I have met some of the most inspirational, beautiful human beings during my time in Ghana.  This SIT group is my family, and I do not know how I will cope with being apart from them after forming this indescribable bond over the past 3 and a half months.  Transitioning from life in Ghana to life in the states will be beyond difficult, but for all of us, our bodies need some physical and mental nurturing after traveling around this country without rest for quite a long time.  I will miss this place so much, but I know that one day I will return.  I also cannot wait for planning my next travel adventures with this family, for we are all like-minded individuals who live to see the world.  For now, I will enjoy my last days in this country, with these beautiful people, and I will see everyone in the states very, very soon!

Simpler Living

Greetings! I have just returned to Kumasi for 2 days to type up the first half of my fieldwork before heading to another rural village for the last 2 weeks of my Independent Study Project! Then it's one week of presentations and goodbyes with my friends, and then back home... I don't think I'm ready!  There's too much to write about these first 2 weeks, but I can say that they were some of the most beautiful and the most challenging weeks I have had here in Ghana.  Fending for ourselves in a very rural village, interviewing all day long, walking miles in the excruciatingly hot sun between different villages for interviews, food, and charcoal for cooking, millions of bug bites (not just mosquitoes... stinging bugs as well!), heat rashes...but all worth it! 

I have met some of the most incredible people during this fieldwork, and in particular, I realized that the homestay family I stayed with during my last time in the rural village neighboring the one we were just in is one of the most beautiful families I have ever met, I cannot even explain.  I would walk to their village (called Ntinanko) almost every other day, both to do interviews and to spend time with them. Each time, they would smile, hug me so many times, give us cold drinks and bananas, and talk with us until the sun went down.  They would not allow me to ever pay for the taxi ride home (at night taxi rides are the safest option) even though I found out that my homestay Dad recently sold his only car in order to pay for his 5 childrens' education.  My homestay father is a quiet man who sacrifices everything for his children (but doesn't tell a soul... I just found this information out from his son Wise), and who works on his cocoa farm all day long.  My homestay Mom smiles and laughs more than anybody I know, and whenever I see her I get a billion hugs.  She works in processing palm nuts into palm oil.  Somehow with these two jobs, my homestay parents can afford for their two eldest sons to go to University, and for their three daughters to go to school as well.  My homestay Dad also built their house himself.  They told me that if I ever needed a place to stay anytime between now and when I go back to the US, I have a family and a home with them.  When I gave them parting gifts, the response was unreal; I got a shiny new bag for my homestay Mom, and she paraded around her family, laughing and crying, showing off her new bag.  My homestay Dad gave me a triple weaved Kente cloth which he got when he went to his home village between the weeks I was not in the village; he said he knew I would be back, and that is why he got it for me.  My homestay sister knitted me a purse.  This family is beautiful, and I will miss them so much.

I will explain my fieldwork at a later date, but as of Tuesday I am off to another village called Krobo-Odumase to experience Dipo, one of the last traditional puberty rites practiced in Ghana!  I love and miss you all... less than 4 more weeks until I am back in the states!

Back to Accra!

I am so sorry for not posting for a long time, but I have not had computer access for weeks.  It has actually been extremely liberating, not being connected to anything that is not in front of me.  It has allowed me to be so present, I am completely enveloped in the experiences I am having and the environment in which I am having these experiences.  I cannot believe that in 3 days, my friends and I will be off to our separate parts of the country for our Independent Study Projects.  They have become my family, I cannot believe we will leave each other in just 5 weeks time.  I have never felt closer to such a large group of people who operate in this way, just laughing all of the time, dancing, completely enveloped in this life in Ghana. 

After Tamale (the city in which I was sick with malaria), we headed to Cape Coast.  I am beyond grateful that I completely recovered for Cape Coast, because it felt like our African spring break.  We all stayed in a hostel together, visited the beach every day, celebrated two of our friends birthdays (danced and had the time of our lives), went skinny dipping in the ocean at night, experienced the music and dance of this part of Ghana, ate TOFU at a vegetarian restaurant!  We also had some incredibly intense experiences visiting two slave forts here, going into the tiny chambers in which thousands of slaves at a time were forced to live for at least six months with barely any light, air, room to move, room to even breathe... one meal a day, nowhere to go to the bathroom.  I cannot fully describe the unimaginable things that occurred in these places.

After Cape Coast, we went to Volta Region where tradition has been kept alive.  We learned to make pottery which women here use to carry water on their heads, and we learned each and every part of the process of making pottery (from fetching the clay in the desert-like bush, to creating the pots, to firing them, etc.)  We also saw some of the most incredible traditional dancing and drumming I have seen here in Ghana, one from the only all woman's traditional dancing and drumming group in Ghana, and one from a group of men and girls who presented war danced to us that were absolutely amazing! 

We recently left Odumase, a small town an hour and a half from Accra where tradition has been maintained more closely than anywhere we have been in Ghana.  Here, bead-making is extremely common, and everyone wears beads to symbolize different phases and aspects of life that they may be facing.  We learned how to make our own beads, which are made out of recycled materials such as recycled glass.  These beads are particularly worn in great quantities during a female rite of passage called Depo, which I will be studying during my Independent Study Project.  Depo is one of the only traditional rites of passage in Ghana that is still practiced by an entire community, and it is a rite that is done by girls starting at the age of 12.  Girls are taught how to become women during this time, and traditionally (before formal education was introduced) girls would go through this rite for a few years.  Now, the majority of girls in this community attend school, and perform Depo rites of passage on the Easter break from school.  It is interesting because the school and the church place a taboo on this rite of passage because the education system in Ghana is based on the British colonial system and both the schools and the church do not promote traditional cultural practices.  However, the majority of girls in this community still perform this rite of passage.  I think you could call this both the best balance of modernization and tradition, and the most terrifying clash of modernization and tradition, because it is not certain whether this delicate balance will hold and the tradition will remain. 

For my Independent Study Project, I will be looking at both formal and informal education for females in Ghana.  I will be spending 2 weeks in the rural village a little over an hour outside of Kumasi with 3 of my friends, a cook from the SIT staff who we love, and a traslator who we have worked with for much of the trip and who we love as well.  I will be working at a school in the rural village, and I will be interviewing females of all ages to talk about formal education and how the informal education of "becoming a woman" is introduced without the presence of rites of passage (the rites of passage have dissappeared in Akan villages such as these).  I have a feeling that the reality of many girls not going to school past a certain age in these villages may have to do with the lack of a rite of passage that creates an atmosphere where the girls can learn this informal education together during a distinct period of time, not during school days.  These rites of passage also teach girls about sex and sexual health, and the lack of these rites may lead to the current situation that many girls are in in much of Ghana of getting pregnant at a young age because of their lack of access to sexual education.  Today when we finally returned to Accra, two of my friends and I met with our advisor at University of Ghana named Dr. Delali Badasu who is an amazing woman.  She gave us so many books and resources for our projects, and I will meet with her Monday morning before I leave for Afrancie (the rural village in which I will be staying!) 

That is an update on everything that has been going on for the past few weeks, and I after Monday I will most likely have little Internet access for the next four weeks until I return to Accra to type up and present my Independent Study Project.  So if you don't hear from me for a little while, don't worry, I am dancing and laughing through life here and do not want this experience to end!

Similarities to George Clooney...

I am now similar to the sexy George Clooney... we have both had Malaria!  Not to fear though, I am feeling better already, laughing and enjoying my life.  Malaria, if you have the money for treatment, is basically like having the flu.  One of my teachers has had malaria 7 times in one year.  A few of my friends had already gotten and recovered from malaria, so when the symptoms began, I knew exactly what was happening.  I felt achy, my fever came on very quickly (although it never got above 101), and I felt very nauseous.  Luckily I am in the best city to get sick, because the SIT staff know the doctor here well and I was the first in line when I reached the clinic.  I saw the doctor, got a blood test, diagnosis, and my medicine within 2 hours!  Last night was a bit rough because I felt like I had the stomach flu, but I couldn't get sick because I had to keep 8 pills down so that I could begin to feel better... and although it was a fight with my stomach all night, I managed to keep the medicine down... I win malaria!  Today the nausea was much lighter, and the only symptom I had was feeling very tired and weak.  I joked with my friends that I felt like an 80 year old woman.  However, I couldn't imagine being sick with anyone else... my friends havebeen absolutely amazing.  Last night, everyone staying in my hostel from my group (8 other people) came into my tiny room and we watched the hilarious show Modern Family on my friend Dan's computer, and my close friend Erica who is my roommate here helped me during the night.  Today I was able to rest and watch a movie on my friend's computer, and all of my friends and academic directors came to check on me throughout the day.  All I am hoping is that tomorrow I will get to go with everyone to Mole, where we will see so many different animals at a National Park!  I love you all, and know that although I am not 100 % now, I will be back to health soon enough.  I have been in Ghana for 6 weeks, so getting sick now is to be expected!  My spirits are still high, and I am surrounded my so many incredible, nurturing, loving friends! I feel very, very fortunate.

Life in the North

Yesterday we arrived in Tamale, a city in the Northern Region of Ghana that has a very large Muslim population... very different from the strong influence of Christianity in the majority of Ghana.   The city is much smaller than any city we have been in thus far.  The population here is much poorer than in the other areas we have visited.  It is here where 7 out of 10 individuals are living on less than $1 per day, below the globally-defined poverty level.  We are staying in an international hostel, where we actually have running water (a change from the rural village), although the electricity goes out even more than in the village, and it is INCREDIBLY hot here.  It's so hot that you cannot even concentrate, you are thirsty every second of the day.  You could literally cook an egg on the pavement.  I have yet to feel hungry in this heat, especially because, aside from the peeled fruit, we cannot eat anything uncooked. It's o.k though, I am still feeling happy and healthy despite the challenging weather and food situation!  I will never take for granted the variety of foods we can eat in the states.

Not to scare anyone, but a fair portion of my group has gotten sick, from malaria to bacterial infections.  We are all trying to take care of one another, and from here on out we have easy access to hospitals and doctors, but in the heat it is very difficult to be sick.  Luckily, aside from feeling nauseous because of the heat, I have been relatively healthy.  Those of us who are healthy are trying to help keep the spirits high of those who are sick, but we have all definitely realized that living in another country, particularly a developing country, for an extended period of time wears on your body quite a bit. 

We have 4 more days in Tamale, where we are learning a great deal about the cooperatives and vast number of NGOs that have been set up in this city, and then we are off to a new location!  We are in our fast-paced tour of the rest of the country, and then once the beginning of April comes, it's on to Independent Study month.  I cannot believe how quickly this trip has been going!  Still laughing and loving life, I hope you are all doing the same. Love!

Onwards

I cannot believe that our time in this village is almost up.  We leave on Friday morning, and I have just gotten used to living here.  The quiet streets that I can walk on without worry of cars passing by with inches of room, the simple mattress on the cement that constitues my room, the kids and adults greeting us everywhere we walk.  The constant greeting is at times frustrating because when you are so hot and exhausted that you want to lie down with a cold ice-pack on your forehead (impossible because the water gets warm within 10 seconds), the last thing you want to do is be followed by a million children.  However, not having this will be strange and I will most likely miss so many aspects of a more simple but difficult life that is lived by those in the rural village. 
After working with Herbalists for my mini-Independent Study Project, I have had some major realizations that have aided me on my path for my larger Independent Study Project.  Working with Herbalists, I realized that if I decided to work with individual Priests and Priestesses who practice Traditional African Religion, I may encounter some frustrations.  First and foremost is the issue of relying on one person (or a few people) as a mentor.  I did not enjoy having to be on someone else's schedule at all times just to gain access to the knowledge I was interested in seeking.  Secondly, after teaching in the village school in Ntinanko, I realized that if I am working on a project for a month, I need to be working in a setting that is hands on  as opposed to simply observing.  Thirdly, if I am working on a project for a month, I need to feel that I am making a difference in the community in which I am living and studying.  Simply studying with Priests and Priestesses would not achieve any of these three goals.  However, working within the educational system here in Ghana, particulary in the village schools that are underserved, seems like a more meaningful project that will allow me to sustain my involvement beyond my time here in Ghana. Additionally, because all teachers in Ghana have been on strike since Tuesday (although the teachers have been happy that we have offered to teach their students for them during this strike), it seems an opportune time to study the Ghanaian educational system.  My passion for teaching will carry me through this project as well.
When I told my teacher Yemi about my new ideas for my project, he was so excited that I saw this as an opportunity rather than a challenge to study education during a turbulent time in the educational system.  He gave me a few ideas, including the study of female education and the issues regarding the lack of knowledge on sex and sexual health, especially for female students.  The classes are dominated by males, and many females are either told to stay home to take care of the house, the farm, or get pregnant at a young age and cannot continue their schooling.  My teacher already has an advisor at the University of Ghana, Legon regarding education and women's issues, and I think that teaching, discussing these issues within the classroom, and even attempting to implement a sexual education class and/or discussion would be so incredible.  I would love feedback from anyone at home! Additionally, my friend Tess and I (after teaching English and Social Studies) had a discussion with the class asking what the students felt they needed in order to learn more easily.  Then today, we all put together some money to buy the school protractors, pens, pencils, chalk for the blackboards, paper, colored pencils.  When I get home I hope to run a book drive and send the books to the school, because all of the students want to have a library so badly. 
Anyway, I am sad to leave this beautiful village, but I am quite sure I will return to teach in the village school and compare this government-funded schooling with private schooling in the city of Kumasi. Also, I am loving life! I hope you are all loving your lives as well. Laughter is currently the music of my soul! 

Village Life!

Hello all! I am alive and well here in Ntinanko, our small village stay here in Ghana.  Internet access is very difficult to find, but this village stay has been the best part of this trip thus far.  Laughing SO much, dancing, farming (SO difficult), learning about traditional herbs in the bush with a 100 year old Herbalist who dances with me, teaching in the village school, sweating from the intense heat, feeling exhausted, feeling overwhelmed by the friendliness of the people in this village (who want to greet you even when you are so tired that you want to stop moving all of your muscles)... but incredibly happy! Savoring this sweet life. Love you all!!!

Off to the Village!

Tomorrow we are off to the village!  I am excited, nervous... a new adventure awaits! I will most likely not be near a computer for the next 2 weeks, so don't worry if you don't hear from me! I will miss Kumasi so much, especially the dancing, the silliness, the constant laughing, my wonderful homestay family, my friends...  but I am ready for a new chapter of this beautiful, enlightening journey. Peace, love, and happiness to you all!

Life in this Ghana

I titled this post "Life in this Ghana" because every morning during what my teachers call "Life in this Ghana" we share our trials and tribulations during our time in this beautiful land! The past few days I have really felt settled in this new city, and now in just a few days we will be off to the rural villages. The days go by so quickly here, they are so full that as soon as I get home I am exhausted!  The heat takes so much out of you, and on top of the heat we are walking everywhere and dancing every day... it's a lot, but I love it!  Feeling tired, though challenging, means the day was full of life.
I laugh so much here. It's that big belly laughter that comes from the core, the kind that tickles your insides and forces tears from your eyes.  Every day.  Either from my hilarious teachers, from my friends, from the events that occur during the day.  It helps that we are all a bit dehydrated all of the time and feel a bit drunk, delirious and giggly, particularly after 12 noon.  We laugh at pretty much everything, make fun of ourselves... it's such a hilarious time.  Today a group of about 7 of us got drinks after class at the gas station/restaraunt in my neighborhood, and we laughed and talked for a couple of hours after dancing.  Life is very simple, yet so beautiful here. 
Ghanaians are some of the friendliest people I have ever met.  The other day on my way to see the Priestess again, I was very early and decided to sit on the curb of a gas station as I was waiting for my friends (you don't sit on the curbs close to the street because they smell strongly of urine).  The man pumping gas told me to sit in his seat, and I tried to politely say that it was his seat and that I was content on the curb.  Well, he insisted that I must sit in his seat, so I did and we ended up talking for 30 minutes about all of the regions in Ghana that he has been to (and that I will be going to very soon).  Sitting at a gas station in America, it would be very unlikely that anyone at all would strike up a conversation with a stranger! But people here are beyond friendly, and I love it.  I make new friends every day.  The only time making good friends is not the best situation is when it is a man who you did not realize is interested in you, and will call you at least 10 times each day until Papa Atah pretends to be your father and tells the man in his deep voice that you are his daughter, and that you got married yesterday.  This has already happened multiple times on the trip. It's hilarious, and we all crowd around to listen to the conversation.
I went back to the Priestess on Sunday, and the experience was incredible.  It is difficult to remember everything that happened there, but Nana told me that she had a dream about me the night before I came to see her again.  She told me that the spirits love me.  She lit a piece of paper on fire without a match or flame of any kind in order to summon the spirits... I took a warm herb bath in water that was heated without a fire... just some snip-its of the spiritual energy at work.  Nana kept hugging me, she is really an incredible woman.
I have only really written of the positive experiences here, because life is overwhelmingly beautiful here in Ghana.  But of course every traveling experience has some challenges, and the biggest challenge here has been the food. It is very difficult being a vegetarian, but even if I wasn't following a vegetarian diet, the food has been rough on everyone's stomach.  The food is so spicy, and just so different than American food.  I have really sensitive taste buds, so sometimes my friends will think a dish is not spicy at all and my mouth will be on fire!  Its actually pretty funny. Usually if I try a new food I get sick to my stomach, and because of the heat I am usually a bit nauseous and not very hungry.  The malaria medicine also contributes to nausea.  It has gotten better and I have learned how to speak up and make sure my homestay family makes food that I can eat and digest, but food in a new country is always a challenge.  However, the fresh mango, pineapple, and avocado are daily aspects of my lunch, which is my favorite meal of the day! Once we get into the rural village, we will have someone that SIT employs to help cook for us, and then we will get much more choice in our food.  This is our last homestay (unless we choose a homestay for our last month ISP time), so the choice in what we eat will be much greater in a few days, and offending the homestay family because you cannot tolerate the food will no longer be an issue! 
The heat is also something to get used to, and by now my skin is so dark!  My sandal tan lines are hilarious.  We sweat pretty much every minute of the day and night, but it really has been just a matter of being under the shade of a mango tree in the middle of the day, drinking enough water, and taking care of ourselves.  But we have the support of our group and our teachers, so the food and the heat, although challenges, are really not too intense in the grand scheme of life here.  Sending you all my love!

Meeting a Traditional African Priestess!

Today was so intense, we met a traditional African Priestess and the experience was out of this world, magical.  It is difficult to explain every aspect of the experience, but I will try my best.  We drove an hour outside of Kumasi to the shrine where the Priestess and members of her community live.  We asked her questions while she was her human self, and she was a sweet woman who hugged me very tightly.  We danced to the sound of drums with Nana (the name for one who communicates with the spiritual world) and our father here in Ghana, Papa Atah.  Then, Nana entered her room and entered into a trance, possessed by one of the traditional African spirits.  She came out with white powder all over her body (a sign of spiritual possession), a black and white outfit, and a red hat.  She was smoking a cigarette, because this particular god liked cigarettes.  Nana gave us all hugs and danced in trance.  She was then possessed by another spirit, and she changed outfits to fit the personality of this new god from the North, who spoke a language that not even Nana in her unaltered state knew how to speak.  This spirit greeted us and danced, and during this time of possession Nana's eyes had an intense yet far-off look, tinted red.  I was not scared, I was simply in awe.

While Nana was possessed by this particular spirit, we were able to have individual consultations with her and ask any questions we wanted.  The waiting period was nerve-wracking, and I went into Nana's room for a consultation second to last.  There were two interpreters in the room, one interpreting from the language of the spirit into Twi (the language spoken here), and one from Twi to English.  The meeting with Nana was nearly indescribable.  I gave her a long hug when I entered the room, and she told me that the spirits really loved my energy.  She said that I have a spirit originating from India that protects me wherever I go, and will continue to protect me my whole life.  She had no idea I had gone to India.  Nana also told me that I have the ability to connect with the spiritual world, and she asked me if I wanted that ability to become clearer.  I said yes.  She said that if I went back to see her again, and if I wanted this, I would take a bath in special herbs and would then have the clarity to see into the spiritual world.  She told me that I would be able to see what was going to happen to those around me after this bath. 

Nobody else in the group got a proposition like this.  Two of my friends were also told they could come back for healing having to do with their families, but my proposition was about my clarity to see into the spiritual world-- a whole other can of worms.  I think I am going to go back this weekend and take the bath.  If nothing happens, it was an experience. And if I am able to reach a greater understanding of my connection to the spiritual world, that would be life-changing. Our program directors have said that there are many specific cases where Nana has been right about what would happen to their students, from a student getting a bad case of malaria but being ok to a student breaking a bone during the trip.  Who knows what will happen, but I am so intrigued and everything feels so right to me, so I must go with the flow of this life.  I am thinking very seriously about having an incredible journey during my Independent Study Project and studying traditional healing amongst traditional Priests, Priestesses, and Diviners here in Ghana.

Still loving my group, my hilarious program directors (I have never laughed so hard in my life than I have at some of the things our program directors say!), and loving life here in Ghana... Peace to you all!
 

Kumasi

Hello from Kumasi! We are settled into our new city for the next 2 weeks until we head to our rural village homestay, which I am so excited about. The peace and quiet of the village will feel so blissful after the chaos of the cities here! My new host family is WONDERFUL, I have a huge family. I have an 8 year old brother, a 10 year old sister, a 27 year old brother named Morrison who I've been hanging out with (along with his friends), a 30 year old sister Tina, and some other siblings who have been in and out who always sit down to talk to me. Our parents are not home because they work on a cocoa farm for a few weeks and then come home soon, so I will meet them before I leave.  My room is on the outside of the house, and I have my own key and a key to the gate, so I have a lot of freedom here which is so nice.  I also have a picture of Bob Marley on the wall... awesome.  The only difficult thing is the bathroom, one bathroom for all of us that doesn't have any lights in it and it is outside, so going in the middle of the night is a challenge. We also don't have a sink so I brush my teeth outside, but it's pretty fun spitting in the hole haha.  We have a little kitten and some big watch dogs, and my host sister  said the neighborhood is very safe because they have volunteer patrol men at night.  I also live in walking distance to 3 of my friends from my program, which is amazing.  We go home together and walk to each others' houses before big rainstorms... I love this place!
We have been learning Twi and will be taking Twi classes in the morning, and 4 hours of dancing in the afternoon while we are here. At the end of our two weeks we will be putting on a performance! My host brother's NGO put on a Gospel Rock show last night which was interesting... the cultural music and dance was amazing, but the Gospel was... something I wasn't used to.  But thus far Kumasi has been filled with positive energy, always moving until I hit the pillow. Love you all!

Celebration of Life

Before posting about inspiring things occurring here in Ghana, I thought I\d post quickly about an experience that happens to me (and many white young women) multiple times per day... having men give me their phone numbers.  It\s hilarious, I have gotten two numbers today just on my walk home from school (which when it is light out is so pleasant, everyone waves hello and is so friendly... it\s just the way of life here).  The man will say something like \Hello, I would like to be your friend,\ and will ask for my phone number.  I will then proceed to say that I do not have a phone here, and the man insists on giving me his number and makes sure that I understand that he wants me to call him.  It is pretty funny, the men here are way too forward for anyone to think that this is an attractive gesture. Oh well! Maybe I\ll collect all the numbers and make an artwork with them at the end of the trip!
On Sunday we went to our first Ghanaian funeral, which is genuinely a celebration of life.  The whole community comes together under one of the large, beautiful trees that exist here, and play music, dance, and sing.  The celebration continues all day and into the night.  The music is repetitive and puts you into a relaxed, almost trance-like state.  It is so powerful, and in the beginning I was so captivated that I felt as if I was meditating on the vibrations.  This meditation continued but was infused with dancing, clapping, and singing... if I was guaranteed to have a funeral like this, I would be so content! Although death in America seems more scary and saddening than anything else, I feel that taking the chance to celebrate each life is such an important thing to do, and a funeral seems like the prime opportunity to bring a community together and honor life.
On Friday we are off to our second homestay in Kumasi, which is a city that is supposedly a hub for visual arts... I am so excited!  Yemi, our Academic Director, asked me what I was looking for during my next homestay.  I told him that I wanted Kids! And a loud family!  I didn\t realize how much I missed having a talkative, lively family until I was in this homestay where the family is very quiet, which is what some people prefer... but not me.  I appreciate everything they have done for me, but I am excited for my next family.  I feel that the staff of my program takes great care to make sure we are all doing well, and I feel extremely nurtured.  I really dont worry about much here, because I know if I need anything they are here to support each of us in any way we need. 
Finally, I just want to take the time to tell everyone back home to make sure to appreciate basic things like water, and electricity!  Our electricity was out for 2 days, and although bathing with a flashlight was a really funny experience, sleeping without a fan blowing the warm air around was tough!  But honestly, getting used to life here has been so smooth, thanks to my group, my program staff, and the attitude here in Ghana to go with the flow of life, and just enjoy! Love

Art All Around Me

It is sometimes difficult to remember what to write about because each day is so Full! On Friday after Twi lessons half of our group went to learn about African sculpture, and half learned how to do Batik, and we will switch on Monday. I went to this sculptor\s house, his name is Kofi Setordji and he is a well known African sculptor and artist. The land upon which he resides in Ghana is one of the most peaceful, serene places I have ever been to.  Immediately upon entering I felt as if I had dropped into meditation, and as we all sat down listening to the quiet around us, we discussed what we believe comprises our identities.  Then we painted all together on a large canvas to create a collective piece responding to this question.  Kofi built his house and his art studio, and he created art all around his house, even up in the trees that he planted on his land! It would be incredible to somehow work with him for my ISP... so many ideas already! On Saturday our group decided to go to an Art Market in the morning, which was extremely chaotic because all of the artists there follow and try to bargain with foreigners.  I love to be friendly but sometimes this works against me, because by the end of our time at the market all of the artists knew my name, some whom I hadn\t even met... I\m not sure why but it was really funny.  Afterwards we went to the beach where everyone dances in the water, plays soccer, and plays music... enjoying life.  A few of my friends and I went to dinner after the beach, and laughed until out stomachs hurt. Today we are going to a funeral, a celebration of life, and Papa Atah (our Papa in Africa) told us that we should try the gin we will be given, but he told us not to take more than 2 shots or else we would have to sleep there! The sense of humor of most people here in Ghana creates a really wonderful energy in this beautiful place.
The Tro Tro rides have been a bit difficult, squished like sardines and sweating in traffic while riding on bumpy roads, sometimes without traffic signals. I almost passed out the other day in the Tro Tro, but thankfully my friends helped me to get water (people sell water to Tro Tros that are stuck in traffic through the window).  The water situation here is difficult, bucket showers and no electricity have been a wake up call for me to appreciate what I have in the states.  However, going with the flow of life here is very easy for me, so it\s all good without these things (drinking water is not too hard to find, just water to bathe is).  I think this go with the flow attitude has allowed me to meet very interesting people here, like the sculpture artist I talked to for almost 2 hours on the Tro Tro the other day.  Just opening myself up to the flow of experiences that are coming towards me and flowing through me, the Universe seems kind if you remain open and free of judgement. That seems to be the key to enjoying life here!

In the Cafe Next to the Monkey

I am currently writing in the Internet Cafe at the University, which is located next to a monkey on a leash attached to a tree. Life is wonderful. Yesterday we had Twi lessons, lecture on the geography of Ghana by a very important local leader, drum lessons all afternoon. Today we had a lecture on religion in Ghana, which interests me immensely, and on the educational system in Ghana. The lecture on religion made me realize that I may want to do my ISP on spirituality in Ghana, learning about deities, festivals involving Kings and spirt possession... very similar to what I have been studying in some of my World Arts and Cultures classes. I feel so liberated walking to the taxi rank in the morning, taking the 50 peswa (about 30 cent) taxi ride to the University, and then walking on the large campus by myself. Everyone on campus is SO friendly... about every third person says goodmorning. Tomorrow I'm taking an African dance class after lectures, which I am so excited about! I am still adjusting to my homestay, it is a bit difficult because it is not very common for the homestay family to eat with you, have long conversations with you, etc. Saturday everyone wants to get together and go to an art market in Accra, to the beach, and then out dancing... and then Sunday we are going to a community to do some more drumming and dancing. I am glad that I have a full day outside of my homestay family where I am comfortable with my friends in my group and people that I meet at the University.  It's not that my family is not friendly, because everyone is having this experience, it's just a cultural difference.  Anyway, I hope you are all well, love from Africa!